How to arrange furniture: try layouts on paper, then on the floor
The arranging order that every room uses: fixed features and paths, then the zone that matters most, then the largest pieces. Draw two different options, check both, tape the better one on the floor and walk it before anything heavy moves.
- Start here: the essentials
- 1. The arranging order
- 2. Focal points, walls and floating pieces
- 3. Light, outlets and rugs
- 4. Two options, checked and compared
- 5. The tape test, and moving pieces safely
- 6. See it: Lena's two options
- 7. Practice: two options and a tape test
- 8. Your rooms
- 9. Check your work
- 10. Knowledge check and scenario
Start here Essentials
At minimum, draw two genuinely different layouts for your first room, check both, and test the better one full size on the floor before you move anything heavy. Everything marked Go deeper can wait.
- Put the fixed features and main paths on the plan first. Doors with their swings, windows, the radiator or vents, outlets, and the routes you walked in Paths and clearances (the arranging order).
- Draw two different layouts, largest pieces first. Use "Copy this option" on the floor plan, or two paper copies (two options).
- Check each against the clearance table and the safety checklist, then pick one. Write both, and your reasons, in the options sheet (comparing options).
- Tape the chosen layout on the floor and walk every route. Carry a basket, open every door and drawer, and record the narrowest point in the walk tests sheet (the tape test).
Minimum time: about 90 minutes, plus help for any heavy piece. Done when: the options sheet has two layouts for your first room with one marked chosen and its reasons, and a walk test of the chosen layout is recorded.
1. The arranging order Understand
A layout is easier to get right when decisions are made in an order where each one constrains the next. The extension bulletins that taught this method to households worked on graph paper with scale cut-outs and placed the largest pieces first, keeping traffic paths around conversation groups rather than through them (Virginia Cooperative Extension, Furniture Arrangement, archived; Michigan State University Extension, Rooms with Rhyme and Reason, a 1972 bulletin the archive marks as not current advice). The figures in those bulletins are dated; the order still works. We use it in every room chapter that follows. Convention
- Fixed features. Everything you cannot move or will not move: walls, doors and their swings, windows and their sills, radiators and registers, the fireplace, outlets, switches and the smoke alarm. Measure and draw the room put these on the plan. They come first because every other decision has to fit around them.
- Main paths. The routes from Paths and clearances: door to door, door to window, door to the main seat or the bed. Draw each as a band at your path width, 36 in by default, before any furniture goes down. A path drawn after the furniture tends to be whatever space is left over.
- The zone that matters most. From your activities sheet (from People and activities), the activity the room exists for: sitting and talking in a living room, sleeping in a bedroom, eating at the table. Mark the area it needs.
- The largest pieces in that zone. The sofa, the bed, the dining table, the desk. A large piece has the fewest places it can go, so it goes in first.
- Everything else. Chairs, side tables, the bookcase, lamps, the rug. Small pieces fill gaps; they rarely decide the layout.
A zone, as People and activities defined it, is the area one activity needs, including the space each piece needs in use and the space people need around it. The order above places zones before pieces for a practical reason: a piece placed first claims space that a zone may need, and moving it later means redrawing everything around it.
The bulletins also gave a rule for large pieces: align them with the walls, parallel or at right angles, and avoid placing large pieces at angles or across corners, which they said wastes floor space (Virginia Cooperative Extension). Convention In a small room that advice usually holds, because a sofa set at an angle takes a triangle of floor behind it that nothing else can use. In a larger room, a piece set away from the wall can be the better plan; section 2 covers what that needs.
One room, one plan, several options
An option is one complete arrangement of the room: every piece placed, every path drawn. The floor plan keeps options per room. "Copy this option" makes an independent copy of the current one, so you can move the sofa in Option B without disturbing Option A. If you work on paper, trace the room outline and fixed features onto two sheets, or photocopy the drawing, and move scale cut-outs on each. Either way, the room and its fixed features stay identical across options; only the movable pieces change.
Keep the option that shows the room as it is now. It is the baseline: the walk test you recorded in Paths and clearances belongs to it, and comparing a new option with it shows what the change actually gains.
Room proportions, as history. The Virginia bulletin rated rectangular rooms by their proportion, length to width, and called rooms from about 1:1.2 to 1:1.7 pleasant to arrange, a 1:2 room hall-like, and square rooms hard to arrange except as dining rooms with a round table. We do not use these as rules: they are one author's mid-century judgment, and the bulletin offers no test behind them. They are still useful as a description of where layouts get awkward. A long, narrow room tends to split into two zones with a path down one side; a square room tends to pull everything toward the center. Lena's living room, 11 ft 6 in by 15 ft 2 in, is about 1:1.3. Preference
2. Focal points, walls and floating pieces
The focal point is a choice
A focal point is the thing in a room the seating faces or the eye goes to first: a window, a view, a fireplace, a screen, a bookcase wall. The extension bulletins called it a center of interest and arranged the main group around it. Which thing that is, is the household's choice. Preference A living room used mainly for watching films has a different focal point from one used mainly for talking and reading, even if the furniture is the same.
When two focal points compete, most often a window and a screen, three moves tend to work:
- Put them on the same wall or on adjoining walls, so a seat can face both with a small turn of the head. A screen directly beside a bright window puts glare in view; Learn Interior Lighting covers this under glare from windows and screens.
- Give each its own seat. The sofa faces the screen; an armchair faces the window.
- Choose one and let the other be seen in passing. This is the usual result in a small room, and it is a fine result.
Avoid letting the focal point decide the path. A layout that puts the sofa square to the window but makes everyone walk through the conversation group to reach the door has traded a daily cost for a view.
Against the wall or floating
Pieces against the walls leave the middle of the room open. That is often the right answer in a small room, and it is how most rooms start. A floating piece stands away from the walls, usually a sofa with its back to a path or to another zone. Floating can make a smaller, closer conversation group in a large room, or mark the edge of a zone in an open plan. It needs four things the wall arrangement gets for free:
- Space behind it. If the path runs behind the sofa, the path width applies there: 36 in by default, or the narrower minor-path width from Paths and clearances where only one person goes and nothing is carried. If nothing runs behind it, it still needs a gap that can be cleaned. The Michigan bulletin left at least 24 in between groupings. Convention
- Something to finish the back. A low console or shelf behind a sofa gives a place for a lamp and stops the back from reading as the back of a piece. This is a matter of looks. Preference
- A way to anchor the group on the floor. Usually a rug (section 3).
- Power. A floating sofa is away from the outlets; the lamp beside it needs a cord, and the cord needs a route that does not cross a path (section 3).
Visual weight and balance
Visual weight is how much a piece draws the eye: tall, dark, solid and busy pieces carry more than low, light, open or plain ones. Balance is visual weight spread around the room so one side does not feel crowded and the other empty. The practical form is short: do not stack the tallest pieces into one corner, beside each other, while the opposite wall has nothing above seat height. A tall bookcase and a tall cabinet usually sit better on different walls. That is all we take from balance, and it is a preference, not a rule: if the only wall that can take a tall piece is beside another tall piece, the layout that works for paths and safety wins. Preference
Arranging around two focal points. When a room has a fireplace and a screen on different walls, try three options rather than two: the group facing the fireplace with the screen to one side, the group facing the screen with the fireplace to one side, and an L of seating that faces the corner between them. Check each against the path and the heat distance from Safety in the layout: anything that can burn stays at least 3 ft from a fireplace or heater, per the U.S. Fire Administration's heating fire safety page. Then sit in each seat for a few minutes. The L often wins on paper and loses in the chair, because one seat ends up looking at neither. Test it
A room with five doors. Some rooms, such as a through living room with a hall, a kitchen, a stair and two bedrooms off it, are mostly paths. Draw every route first, door to door, at path width. The leftover islands are the only places furniture can go, and there are usually fewer than it seemed. Pick the largest island for the main zone, keep the doors that are used least as the place to compromise (a narrower minor path), and accept that some rooms are best arranged as a hall with seating rather than a living room with doors.
3. Light, outlets and rugs
Daylight and screens
Where a screen or a desk faces matters as much as where it sits. A screen opposite a window shows the window as a reflection; a screen beside a window puts bright daylight in view around it; a desk facing a window puts the person's eyes in the light. Learn Interior Lighting's chapter on layers and glare explains why, and the test is simple: sit in the seat at the time of day you use it and look. Test it Mark any glare in the option's notes. Living and dining rooms places the screen by viewing distance; Kitchens, baths and desks places the desk.
Lamps and outlets
Every lamp needs an outlet within reach of its cord. Mark the outlets on each option and check that each lamp has one nearby. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission's home electrical checklist says to move a cord, or the furniture, when furniture or a rug rests on it, and that extension cords are not a permanent substitute for an outlet (CPSC, Home Electrical Safety Checklist, 2008). Convention Safety in the layout covers cords in full. In arranging, it comes down to three checks per option:
- Does each lamp reach an outlet without an extension cord? If not, can the lamp move to a wall that has one?
- Does any cord cross a path? A lamp beside a floating sofa with the outlet across the path is the common case. Move the lamp to the wall side of the group, or choose a different option.
- Does any piece press against a plug? A sofa pushed hard against an outlet can bend the plug. Leave a gap or use the next outlet.
A new outlet is the landlord's or an electrician's job, not part of the layout. If no option gives a lamp a safe cord route, write that down as a question for them. Ask the authority
Rugs as zone anchors
A rug under a group marks it as a zone: the seats that share a rug read as one group. Rug sizes come from practitioners and retailers, and they are conventions. Convention The default we use: in a living area, a rug large enough that at least the front legs of every seat in the group stand on it, with some bare floor between the rug and the walls. The table shows the common versions.
| Where | Convention | Source | What it is for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Living area, small | Front legs of the seating on the rug | This Old House | Ties the group together with a smaller rug |
| Living area, large | All furniture on the rug, 12 to 18 in of floor around it | This Old House | One zone, clearly marked |
| Living area, very small | Rug inside the group, all legs off it ("floating" rug) | This Old House | A rug where a larger one would hit doors or walls |
| Bare floor to the wall | 10 to 20 in; or 12 to 18 in; or about 24 in | This Old House (two of its pages) | Looks; one publisher gives three ranges |
| Dining table | 24 to 30 in past the table edge on every side; 60 to 80 cm on each long side | This Old House; IKEA | Chair legs stay on the rug when a chair is pulled out |
| Bed | 18 to 24 in past the sides and foot; about 50 cm beside the bed | This Old House; IKEA | Something soft underfoot on getting up |
Two practical checks outrank any size figure: a rug's edge should clear every door as it swings, and it should lie flat where people walk. Safety in the layout covers throw rugs and falls. Test it
Where the rug sources differ. This Old House's rug sizing guide gives three living-room layouts (all furniture on, front legs on, a floating rug) with 12 to 18 in of floor around a large rug, and also repeats its own spacing guide's figure of about 24 in from rug edge to wall. Its living room guide says 10 to 20 in of bare floor. The same publisher gives three ranges, which tells you the figure is about looks and room size rather than function. For dining, This Old House adds 24 to 30 in on every side of the table; IKEA's rug guide says 60 to 80 cm on each long side, which is the same idea in metric. Neither source tests the figure; the functional test is to pull a chair out and see whether its back legs stay on the rug. The older Virginia bulletin wanted the rug to run under the large pieces placed near the wall. No source we found gives a reason to prefer one living-room layout over another beyond looks and the door and path checks.
4. Two options, checked and compared
Make them genuinely different
Two options that differ by a few inches teach little. Aim for a second option that changes a big decision: the sofa on a different wall, the bed on a different wall, the sofa floated instead of against the wall, the desk in a different room. The Michigan bulletin had readers trace several arrangements on the plan before moving anything, and that is the core of the method. Convention Two is the minimum. A third is worth drawing when the first two each fail one check.
Draw each option in the arranging order from section 1. Then, for each, draw the paths at your path width and add measurements at the places that look tight. The floor plan measures between any two edges and flags a measurement marked as a walking path when it falls below your path width, with a hatched band and a warning sign, so the flag does not depend on color.
Check each one
Run the same two checks on every option before comparing them:
- The clearance check. For each path and each piece in use, compare the narrowest measurement with the clearance table row that applies. Mark the option passes, partly or does not pass in the options sheet. A path that falls under the default is not automatically wrong; the walk test in Paths and clearances decides, but the option carries that path as a question.
- The safety check. Go down the safety checklist from Safety in the layout for the option: tall pieces where they can be anchored, two ways out clear, nothing that can burn within 3 ft of a heater or radiator, no cord across a path, the TV on furniture made for it. Mark it passes, partly or does not pass.
An option that fails a safety item is not a finished option. Either change it until the item passes, or carry the item as an open question with the person who settles it named (the landlord, a manual, a household member).
This manual gives a method, not taste. Two layouts that pass the clearance and safety checks are both acceptable, and the household chooses between them. Focal points, balance and rug sizes are conventions and preferences; break them when your room or your household needs to. The clearance table's figures are reference points with sources, not requirements for your home, and your walk test can overrule them in either direction. What this section does not let you skip is the safety checklist: an option that puts something that can burn beside a radiator, or a cord across a path, is not finished until that item is resolved.
Compare on your own criteria
Compare the options on what your household needs from the room, not on a general score. Four questions do most of the work:
- The two activities that matter most. From your activities sheet. Which option serves them better, for the people who do them?
- The paths. Which option gives the wider narrowest point on the main routes, and does either put a path through the main zone?
- The safety items. Which option passes more of them, and are the open items ones you can settle soon?
- What has to be bought, moved or asked for. An anchor kit, a longer lamp cord route, a piece that has to go, a written request to the landlord.
Write the comparison into the options sheet: one row per option with what changes, the two checks, what must be bought or moved, and the reasons. Tick Chosen on the one you will tape. "Chosen" here means chosen to test, not decided for good. Your layout plan asks you to live with the result for at least a week, as the Michigan bulletin advised, before judging it.
Three or more options with a scoring grid. When three options all pass both checks, a grid can make the choice visible. List your criteria down the side (the two main activities, the main path's narrowest point, safety items open, cost or effort, how it feels from the main seat), and give each option 0, 1 or 2 per criterion. Weight the two main activities double if they matter most. The grid does not decide for you: if the top scorer feels wrong when you sit in the taped layout, the tape wins. Its use is to show which criterion is driving the choice, so a household can argue about that criterion instead of about the whole room. Preference
5. The tape test, and moving pieces safely
The tape test
A plan shows whether pieces fit. It does not show how a 38 in path feels with a laundry basket, or whether the armchair feels cut off from the sofa. The tape test marks the chosen option full size on the floor before the heavy pieces move. Room & Board's fit guide suggests the same approach for a new piece: outline it on the floor with tape, or use a cardboard template, and live with the outline (Room & Board, Will Your Furniture Fit?). Test it
- Mark the footprints. Painter's tape on the floor for each piece that moves, at its full width and depth. Mark the front edge with a second strip so you can see which way it faces. For a piece you do not own yet, use flattened boxes cut to size or tape alone.
- Mark the space in use. A dashed line of tape where a drawer, a door or a reclining back reaches when open (the in-use depth from The furniture you have).
- Move the light pieces into place. Chairs, side tables, the coffee table and lamps can usually sit on their tape. Stand-ins (a box for a side table, a chair for a lamp) are fine.
- Walk every route. Each main route from Paths and clearances, carrying something bulky, a laundry basket or a tray. Open every door and drawer on the way, including the room door through its full swing. Sit in each seat and get up again.
- Record it. In the walk tests sheet: the route, what you carried, the narrowest point with a tape measure, what you bumped, and "after" (meaning after the change, here the taped option). Note that it was taped, not moved, in the route field.
In a furnished room the old layout is in the way of the new one. Two ways round it: tape the new footprints around the pieces that stay put and move only the light pieces, walking the routes that are clear; or move the heavy pieces once, with help, and treat the move as the test. Choose the first when you are unsure; it costs only tape. Leave the tape down for a day or two if you can. A layout that seemed fine on the first walk often shows its problem on the third, when you are carrying groceries.
Moving pieces within the room
When the tape test passes, the heavy pieces move. Moving furniture can injure you, and this manual does not tell you how much you can lift. That depends on you, the piece and the room. NIOSH's toolbox talk on lifting and carrying, written for construction workers, says to plan the lift and clear the path, use a dolly or other equipment, ask for help with heavy or awkward objects, and gives 50 lb as the most one person should lift (NIOSH, Materials Handling: Lifting and Carrying, 2026). We cite the 50 lb figure only as a reference point from workplace guidance; it is not a rating for a home or a person. Convention
- Clear the path first. Pick up the rug if it will catch, move the small pieces out, prop doors open.
- Empty it. Take everything out of drawers and off shelves before moving a dresser or bookcase. An emptied piece is lighter, and drawers cannot slide out while it tilts. Physical principle
- Slide or roll rather than carry. Furniture sliders under the legs on a hard floor or carpet, or a dolly for a tall piece.
- Get help. With anything heavy, tall or awkward, two people, and one of them watching the path and the walls.
- Anchor before loading. A tall piece that needs anchoring (Safety in the layout) goes in its place, gets anchored, then gets reloaded. Do not reload a bookcase or dresser that is not yet anchored where children could climb it.
If a piece is too heavy or awkward for the people you have, stop and get more help or hire it out. The moves list takes a row for each piece with "help needed" ticked and a date, so the rest of the layout can go ahead while that piece waits.
6. See it: Lena's two options See it
Lena's living room. Lena rents a second-floor one-bedroom apartment. Her living room is 11 ft 6 in by 15 ft 2 in with an 8 ft ceiling. The 32 in entry door swings into the room on a long wall, 10 in from the corner. A sliding door to the balcony fills most of one short wall. The other long wall has a window with a radiator under it, 36 in wide. There are outlets on three walls and none on the balcony wall. Her furniture: a sofa 84 by 36 by 33 in, an armchair 32 by 34 in, a coffee table 48 by 24 in, a 55 in TV on a console 60 by 16 in, a bookcase 30 by 12 by 72 in, and a floor lamp. The example in the floor plan ("Load the example") holds both options below, and the options and walk sheets have them as starter rows. All measurements are invented for this manual.
Option A: as it is now. The entry door hits the armchair, so the door does not open fully. To reach the balcony she walks around the coffee table. Her Paths and clearances walk test, entry door to balcony door carrying a laundry basket, found 22 in at the narrowest point, between the coffee table's corner and the armchair behind the door. Clearance check: does not pass. Safety check: partly, because the bookcase is not yet anchored.
Option B: sofa on the window wall. She drew it in the arranging order. Fixed features first: the door swing, the balcony slider, the radiator. Then the main path from the entry door to the balcony, at 36 in. Then the main zone, sitting and watching the TV, and its largest piece: the sofa on the window wall, its back 12 in from the wall and about 6 in from the radiator, with the TV console opposite on the entry wall and the coffee table 12 in in front of the sofa. Then the rest: the armchair on the short wall by the entry door's hinge side, clear of the swing, and the bookcase below it on that wall, where she can anchor it now that the landlord has said yes in writing, provided the holes are filled at move-out (Safety in the layout). The floor lamp goes beside the sofa near the window-wall outlet, so its cord runs along the wall, not across the path. As drawn, the path runs between the coffee table and the TV console and measures 38 in. Clearance check: passes.
The check that is still open. The sofa's back sits about 6 in from the radiator. The U.S. Fire Administration says to keep anything that can burn at least 3 ft from heat sources, including radiators. Option B does not meet that as drawn, so its safety check is "partly". There are two ways to settle it. She can move the sofa out to leave 3 ft; on the plan, that pushes the sofa and coffee table about 30 in toward the TV, which potentially narrows the 38 in path between the coffee table and the console to under 10 in, so she redraws the option and measures again. Or she can ask the landlord what kind of radiator it is and how hot it runs, and read any guidance they have for it. Until one of those is done, Option B is not finished.
Known: the room, the furniture, Option A's walk test (22 in), Option B's drawn path (about 38 in), the landlord's written yes for the anchor holes. Assumed: that the floor plan's measurements match the room within an inch or so, since Lena's diagonal check in Measure and draw the room showed the room is treated as square for planning. Open: the radiator distance (settled by Lena redrawing the option or by the landlord's answer); whether the 38 in path holds up when taped and walked (settled by her tape test); which option she prefers living in (settled by a week with the taped and moved layout, Your layout plan, not decided in advance). The screen distance in Option B is covered in Living and dining rooms; the glare from the window behind the sofa onto the screen is a check for Learn Interior Lighting's glare chapter.
What she chose to tape. Option B, with the radiator item open, because Option A fails the main path and the door. Her reasons in the options sheet: "Path between the coffee table and the TV console is 38 in. Door opens fully. Sofa about 6 in from the radiator: under 3 ft, so the radiator side needs a check." Choosing B to tape does not settle that she will keep it.
Free sources behind this chapter's method:
- Virginia Cooperative Extension, Furniture Arrangement (archived PDF): the graph-paper and cut-out method, largest pieces first, paths around groups.
- Michigan State University Extension, Rooms with Rhyme and Reason (archived 1972 PDF, marked not current advice): tracing several arrangements, and living with one for a week before changing it.
- Room & Board, Will Your Furniture Fit? (retailer PDF): outlining a piece on the floor with tape or cardboard.
- NIOSH, Materials Handling: Lifting and Carrying: planning a lift, getting help and using a dolly, written for construction work.
7. Practice: two options and a tape test Practice
Minimum: two genuinely different options for your first room on the plan or on paper, both checked against the clearance table and the safety checklist, one chosen with its reasons in the options sheet, and the chosen one taped and walked with the result in the walk tests sheet. Time: about 90 minutes for the drawing and checks, 30 minutes for the tape test, and longer if heavy pieces move. Materials: your floor plan from Measure and draw the room and furniture list from The furniture you have (or graph paper and scale cut-outs), a tape measure, painter's tape, a few flattened boxes, a laundry basket or tray; furniture sliders and a helper if anything heavy moves.
- Open the plan and check the baseline. The room, its fixed features and the furniture as it is now. Name it "Option A: as it is now".
- Draw the paths. Each main route from Paths and clearances, as a band at your path width.
- Copy the option and rearrange. "Copy this option", then rename it. Place the main zone, then its largest piece somewhere genuinely different, then the rest.
- Measure the tight places. Add a measurement at each narrow point and mark the ones on a walking path.
- Run both checks on both options. The clearance table and the safety checklist. Fill in the options sheet.
- Choose one to test and write why. Tick Chosen and fill in the reasons, including any safety item still open and who settles it.
- Tape it and walk it. Footprints, front edges and in-use lines in tape; light pieces in place; every route walked carrying the basket, every door and drawer opened. Record it in the walk tests sheet.
- List the moves. Each heavy piece that has to move, with help needed and a date, in the moves list.
- Draw a third option. One that breaks a convention you followed in the first two: a floated sofa, a different focal point, the rug left out.
- Score all three. Use the grid from section 4 and see which criterion decides.
- Print the chosen option at scale. "Print this option at scale" on the plan page, then check the scale bar with a ruler, and keep the printout beside the taped floor.
8. Your rooms Your rooms
9. Check your work Check your work
Criteria
- Do both options keep the room's fixed features exactly as measured, with only movable pieces changed?
- Were the main paths drawn before the furniture, at your path width?
- Are the two options genuinely different, with at least one large piece on a different wall or in a different position?
- Does each option carry a clearance check and a safety check in the options sheet?
- Is every open safety item written down with the person or document that settles it?
- Does each lamp in the chosen option reach an outlet without a cord across a path?
- Was the chosen option taped full size and walked carrying something, with doors and drawers opened, and recorded?
- Does the plan treat the chosen option as a test to live with, not a final answer?
Worked example
Lena's options (fictional) meet the criteria with one item open. Both options share the room as measured. Option B moves the sofa to a different wall, so the options are genuinely different. Option A does not pass the clearance check (22 in at the narrowest); Option B passes it (about 38 in as drawn) and is "partly" on safety because of the radiator distance, which is written down with two ways to settle it: redraw with the sofa 3 ft from the radiator, or the landlord's answer about the radiator. The lamp cord runs along the window wall. Her tape test of Option B goes in the walk tests sheet as "after", marked taped. Whether she keeps Option B is left to her week of living with it.
Common mistakes
- Placing the furniture first and finding the path in what is left. Draw the paths first.
- Two options that differ only by a few inches. Change a big decision.
- Checking clearances but skipping the safety checklist, so a sofa ends up against a radiator.
- Treating a rug-size or focal-point convention as a rule that rules out an option that works.
- Choosing on the plan and skipping the tape test.
- Walking the taped routes empty-handed. Carry something.
- Moving a heavy piece alone or with its drawers full.
What is still unresolved
The tape test shows whether the chosen option works on a walk; it does not show whether it suits daily life. That is settled by living with it for at least a week (Your layout plan). Open safety items are settled by the person named for each: the landlord, a heater's manual, a household member. How the living room and dining room apply this method, with seating distances and screen and table figures, is Living and dining rooms; bedrooms and one-room homes are Bedrooms and small homes.